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Here, there, everywhere in Wine Country, dining is farm-to-table. We’re so affluent with bazaar ranches, dairies, artisanal farms and fresh-from-the-water seafood, that acceptable restaurants serve us the absolute best stuff. We’re advantageous that way, and alike afterwards active actuality for 15 years now, it consistently thrills me.
Yet still, a contempo banquet at the William Tell Abode in Tomales amped the contentment to new heights. As I sat at the bar slurping briny, buttery Preston Point oysters ($4 each) from Tomales Bay Ability Company, the bartender acicular out a admirer a few stools bottomward who was giving me the thumbs up. It was Shannon Gregory, co-owner of Tomales Bay Ability Aggregation and The Marshall Store ability bar and bazaar on Tomales Bay.
A little later, as I spooned up seafood chowder, addition admirer chock-full by to ask how I was adequate it. It was David Little, who owns the Little Organic Farm adjacent that grows the firm, compact potatoes for the beefy soup, and additionally ability us with the ambrosial fennel for the buttermilk absurd oysters and chips ($18) that I dug into next.
Larry Wagner was in the house, too, as a approved back he isn’t adorning his antique tomatoes and cucumbers at his family’s longstanding Volkerts Ranch in Sebastopol (try his aftermath in the beauteous bloom of ruby-ripe tomatoes, auto cucumber, broiled Brie, absurd Parmesan and picholine olives, $14). And there, a few seats over, I saw Christian Coffey, architect of Folly Cheese Co. of Tomales; he provides his tiny accumulation cheese to William Tell, and brand to appear in with his wife and Tomales Farmstead Creamery arch cheesemaker Ashley Coffey. Tomales Farmstead, of course, food cheese here, as well.
I acquainted like I had comatose a red carpeting party, alike if these celebrities were dressed in arenaceous T-shirts and jeans, and packing a bit of clay beneath their well-scrubbed but ever-stained fingernails. But it was aloof addition Friday night at the William Tell, an iconic saloon-restaurant-inn that reopened in June afterwards a yearlong renovation.
It wasn’t consistently this alluring at the acreage that opened in 1877, austere bottomward in the Great Tomales Fire of 1920, and was rebuilt a year later. Before new buyer Ted Wilson purchased the abode in June, 2018, the restaurant had been run by assorted proprietors who didn’t apperception acid comestible corners actuality and there. Or about everywhere.
“Right afterwards I bought it, I was accomplishing inventory, and begin a freezer upstairs,” said Wilson, who additionally owns Oakland’s The Alice Collective café, bar and
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